Published on April 13, 2008

Sun, Sand and Turquoise in Saint Martin

Saint Martin or Sint Maarten is a tiny island in the Caribbean Sea, the smallest island to be shared for the last 350 years by two states, France and Netherlands. The island is located some 200 miles East of Puerto Rico. From the North shore, Anguilla peeks out, just 5 miles away.

The French side is less populated and if you like quiet beaches, French pastries and small cafés, then this is the place to go. The Dutch side is busier, more commercial, has lots of shops, a vibrant nightlife and several casinos.

Grandes CayesIf you would like some solitude, just you, the sun, the sand and the turquoise water, there is a secluded beach on the northern tip of the island. The surfers call it Cayes or "the wilderness."

Landing at Princess Juliana AirportThe average temperature of St. Maarten is 80F (27Celsius) in the winter and 86F (30C) in the summer. The water temperature is approximately 78F (25.6C). Gentle trade winds keep the humidity low.

Few years back a hurricane dumped a lot of sea water and damaged crops and soil for years to come. Most of the fruits and vegetables are currently imported from Dominica, or from other more distant places. I learned this from our taxi driver, a lady from Belgium who came to the island eight years back, to attend a wedding party. Seeing the island, she extended her stay for another few months to baby sit. Then she decided to stay and she loves it.

Orient BayThe island has one main road, single lane, which circles the island and if the traffic is light you can circle around in about two hours. Otherwise, make sure not to forget your camera and CDs because you can get stuck in traffic for a looong time. Secondary roads, though riddled with potholes, can make for a fun drive as they are steep and narrow. Following these roads can take you to some great vista points with views of the bays and cruise ships, nearby islands, sun sets, sun rises, and whatnot.

Car rental shops are plentiful, but is advisable to make a reservation before you arrive there. We chose to rent a Kia Picanta after arriving at the hotel. The cost was €198, while on the Internet a Toyota Yaris would have been $210.

Restaurants

You will find excellent restaurants in St. Martin serving great food at prices ranging from $20 to $80 per person. The restaurants that we liked most were Le Ti' Provençal, Sol e Luna, Bamboo Bernie, Les 13 Travaux d'Hercule and Tortuga Beach Bar.

Sol e Luna, located in Mont Vernon in Orient Bay is very popular and sought after for its excellent food. However, portions are minuscule and priced at the high end of the range. Your taste buds will have a great experience, but you may leave still hungry and with a light wallet.

Le Ti' Provençal in Village de Grand Case is a small restaurant right on the beach and has delicious food, at a reasonable price. The staff is very friendly and make you feel like in a family setting. Chef de cuisine Hervé Sageot has received numerous awards and rightly so.

If you want to experience the taste of Créole food in a local setting, go to Les 13 Travaux d'Hercule located on Route Cul de Sac, not far from the Orient Bay.

Bamboo Bernie, located close to the Princess Juliana Airport is a great choice for sushi and sea food. If you go there on a Wednesday night, ladies drink for free.

Tortuga Bar is a great place if you want to grab a quick lunch. While waiting, you are likely to see the airplanes landing as the airport is right next to the bar. We witnessed people standing on the beach just when big airliners were taking off, despite the warning posters. They were blown away in the water in a cloud of sand, but seemed that they were enjoying been blown away...

View from Tortuga Bar

For those who prefer to cook breakfast in their room, there are supermarkets all around but it is better to shop on the Dutch side where the prices are lower. We went to a supermarket in Marigot (capital of the French side) and were surprised to see prices much higher than in US: €6.70/300g smoked salmon, €3.35/12 eggs, €2.45/500g grape tomato, €1.30/1L milk, €3.50/1.89L Tropicana Juice, €4.35/Lindt chocolate bar. Now multiply that by 1.45$/€.

Activities

Like most other tourist destinations with sun, sand and water, you can be kept quite busy with all the activities available: parasailing, jet ski rental, snorkeling, scuba diving, cruises or deep sea fishing. Very popular among thrill seekers is kite wind surfing or kiteboarding, but you have to bring your own gear.

On land there are activities like hiking to the Pic Paradis, which is the highest point on the island, at 424m. There are other hiking routes, but is advisable to go with a larger group, as some tourists have been robed. ATVs trips are available from $65 for 2 1/2 hours. A full day island tour, including lunch, will cost $135.

Loterie Farm provides ziplining on cables that link big trees and enable you to zip from tree to tree. Completing the track takes about two hours and costs $40 per person. You need to make a reservation in advance, as many times groups from the cruise ships take over the course.

Attacus Atlas Moth Another place to see is the Butterfly Farm (La Ferme aux Papillons). It is an area of about 1000 to 2000 square meter, enclosed with a net to keep the butterflies in. You can see the insects in all their life stages from egg to caterpillar, to pupa and then adult. Best time to take pictures is in the morning when the cooler air makes them less active. There is a tour guide that will give you lots of interesting information.